F.I.G.M.O

wIggy · 06-14-2008, 12:00 PM

I'll be on my way to Osan Air Base Korea in about 8 months, just wondering if any of the current/former military members in this community has any advice for me?

*G_Man* · 06-14-2008, 02:59 PM

On Nyung Ha Sae-O...

Ummm.... Learn Korean?? I don't know much about the Air Force over there, but I know I would like to visit. Sounds a lot better than Iraq.

**Sp00k** · 06-15-2008, 12:53 AM

wIggy in da house! Sorry I missed ya mate but hope everything is working out for you. Looking forward to hearing from you and of course any pics you have too.

I envy you really but glad at the same time I am not in the forces.

wIggy · 06-15-2008, 12:33 PM

the best news of this is, although I've learned to...appreciate(?) Montana, I've never really wanted to be there (I'm in texas right now for unrelated training) I get my choice of assignment after I complete my year, so it looks like I'll be in Turkey in under 2 years, married to the girl of my dreams

**Noodles** · 06-15-2008, 12:50 PM

That is great news Wiggy. Great to see you.

I wish I had some wisdom for Korea, but as G said it is a lot better than the middle east.

wyeast · 06-16-2008, 08:42 AM

Some of this stuff might be somewhat inaccurate, but I'll give it a go.

Weather:

1) Cold as a beyotch in the wintertime. I actually don't think it's as cold as you probably see in Montana, but it's a pretty wet cold, so it feels worse. A guy I used to work with would tell me stories about artillery practice where the swab would get frozen in the barrel between shots if they didn't hustle up.

2) Humid as crap in the summertime. You just can't win.

Summer monsoons hit from time to time, but it's a warm humid rain. AC ("aircon" as it's called there) is becoming more common, but you'll still find a lot of the smaller restaurants/stores won't have it. Those that do, they'll be underpowered compared to the massive AC units we're used to here, so the air feels cool, but still pretty humid.

Bugs:

Mosquitos are vicious in Korea. They'll friggen chase you for half a block trying to get a bit outta you. Keep well stocked up on repellent. Or learn to eat lots of kimchi.

Food & Drink:

Hot n' spicy. Kimchi is treated like french fries in america. Many Koreans drink like a FISH. Soju will be the bane of your existance. Don't try to keep up. For whatever reason (I think it's certain enzyme anomalies among asian races) Soju f's up caucasians way worse than it does Koreans. I brought some back from a trip years ago, and one of my buddies became hooked on it. He's usually a pretty good drinker, but whenever he'd hit the soju it would be comedy.

And if some Korean buddies ever try to take you out to a "Makkoli-jip" (how it sounds, not how it's spelled) be ready for a hell of a hangover in the morning.

Society and Culture:

Social reaction to American servicemen are kind of a mixed bag in Korea. There's a lot of younger radical students who wish us out, and there's the older more conservative types who wish they'd STFU because they still remember what it's like to have Chinese tanks rolling across the Han.

... and I'm out of time. Sorry. I have to get the kids ready for school. I'll be back to continue more later.

Lemme know if you have any specific questions.

wyeast · 06-16-2008, 09:58 PM

... and I'm back.

Pastimes:

Koreans love to party. There are lots of nightclubs in Seoul, particularly in hip areas like Apkujong-dong. Lots of dance clubs, pool halls, and karaoke bars (called Noribang). Lots of places have goofy western names. I remember one nightclub that was called "Bodyguard". You guessed it. Themed after the Costner movie. Hilarious.

Traffic:

Is a fright. It's improving, but it's still like playing hockey on grease. Too many cars, on roads that are little more than paved-over cart tracks. Seoul is a maze of roads. Avoid it if possible, unless you're in it for the sport.

Outside of Seoul:

The next major city down is Taejon. Major difference is that the local population isn't nearly as versed in Western society. In Seoul, you can usually get away with limited english at most major restaurants/stores/etc. In Taejon, not so much, at least that was the case about 10 years ago when I was down there.

Other:

Some of the old timers will tell you that shopping is a bonanza in Seoul. That's been changing. The big haggle-fests in Itaewon don't seem to be as prevalent anymore. Which is kinda too bad, because watching Koreans haggle is a trip. Every time a counteroffer is made, someone cries out as if you stabbed them in the foot. last time I was there, food/dining was pretty cheap, but most material goods you'll probably get a better deal at the BX.

Similar to other Asian cultures, Koreans are big on image. Gift giving is big. Bring some small token if you're ever invited to visit someone's home. So is battling over who gets to pay the tab among close friends. I've watched my dad and his buddies literally wrestle over a lunch tab.

Tipping is not a common custom, if I remember correctly.

Make no bones about it. Korean society is well aware that they've been living under a cease-fire for 50 years. There's still air raid drills and mandatory conscription (at least there were 10 years ago), there are still searchlights in the sky, armed security at the airports, and people will speak coolly about things like how it's the most likely time of year for artillery to hit Seoul without radiation drifting back north.

I had the good fortune(?) of being in Taejon the year that Kim Il-Sung died. I remember that first night vividly, with my co-workers listening to reports over shortwave, asking me if I was proficient with a rifle, as they were seriously considering the possibility that the kid was cracked enough to send tanks into the DMZ his first night as the new Glorious Leader.

Maybe that's what drives them to drink.

Oh, and for your crash course in Korean - (again, written how it sounds, not how it'd be written romanized)

"Muhl choem ju-sayoh." - "I'd like some water, please"

"Hwajang-shil uh-dee-say-oh?" - "Where is the restroom?"

Oh, and if you ask for cider at a restaurant, you'll get 7-up.

**Noodles** · 06-20-2008, 05:31 PM

Wyeast is better than the Michelin or Fodor's guide. I am taking him along if get to Korea.

wyeast · 06-21-2008, 07:42 AM

Bringing me along is a bit of a mixed blessing. There's a slur - "orange-y-jo". It's a term that youths (like teens, 20's) use for Koreans their age like me - Westernized and living overseas. I don't remember the exact meaning - something about oranges, which are obviously plentiful in America but virtually nonexistant in Korea.

Anyway, nationalist pride runs high - almost tantamount to reverse racism. A white kid walks through Seoul talking english, they're generally thinking "oh, tourist" and act fairly friendly - speaking english back if they can.

But see someone like me, an out-of-place dumpy looking korean kid speaking english w/ a western accent, and stilted Korean - it's almost offensive to them. Certainly on the back of their mind is "Why aren't you like a normal Korean?"

Then again, it's hilarious when confronted by Christian missionaries on the streets of Taejon. These poor white kids came up to us, talking in fairly good Korean... but we responded to them in German.

Takes me about a month or two to warm back up to speaking in limited conversations. Until then you're just carrying a retard around with you.

Oh - I nearly forgot. I don't know if you'll run into this among adults, but it's possible among ROK's that you'll hear them referring to each other as brother/sister rather than by their given names. It sort of has roots carrying back to the "respect your elders" kind of thing. You're often referred to by "family position" rather than your name.

I would never refer to my older cousins by name. It was always "hyung" (older brother) or "noona" (older sister) - that is, when spoken by a boy. For a girl, the terms are "opa" and "eu-ni" When I was working there, my co-workers asked/insisted I do the same - but I wasn't sure if that was common for the workplace among the adults, or they were just having a gas trying to "Koreanize" me.

Among adults, at least those in a familiar relationship, the title vs name thing still carries. Husband and wife never refer to each other by name. It's almost always "yubbo" or "my loved one". On the streets, when you encounter an elderly man or woman, it's always "harabogee" or "halmonee" (again, more bastardized spellings) - which indeed mean "old man" or "old woman" - except it's exactly how you'd refer to your grandfather or grandmother. So literally you're treating any elderly person the same as your grandparents.

But I won't bore you with the complexities of how my aunts and uncles refer to each other. It was mostly a heads up in case you run into a ROK unit and notice the term 'hyung' used a lot.

wIggy · 06-21-2008, 01:03 PM

WOW!! WY, I couldn't ask for a more, thorough and comprehensive crash course, all of my curiosities to this point have been handled, thank you! I notice that the Korean culture is very similar to Turkish culture, especially when it comes to referring to people according to family position, such as Abi/Abla (older brother, older sister) and yenge/teze (father's sister/mother's sister) etc. Thank you, I'll definitely remember this, and probably refer to it frequently in the coming months leading to my departure. Great Job!

wyeast · 06-25-2008, 08:01 AM

It's funny that you mention Turkey. It's somewhat debated, but some consider Koreans ethnically to be something of a splinter of the Altaic family, which includes Mongolia, Tunguska, and Turkey. (the same theory that postulates Korea as Altaic also includes Japan) At best most agree it's at least some sort of isolate group, undoubtedly heavily influenced by neighboring China and Japan.

Oh, and you probably already know this, but in Korean, names are written/spoken in reverse order. For example, for President Lee Myung-bak, his family name is Lee, given name is Myung-bak.

I believe this only occurs with Korean names, so in a conversation when someone is talking about a Korean and an American, the Korean's name is read out reverse, while the American's is read out forwards.

Shotgun Styles · 07-02-2008, 01:35 AM

Quoting: wIggy

I'll be on my way to Osan Air Base Korea in about 8 months, just wondering if any of the current/former military members in this community has any advice for me?

You can find some of my posts from Camp Casey on this board. I did 13 months up near the border. All I can say is: Korea kinda sucks. If you like dirty 3rd world prostitutes and soju, you're in great shape though. They also serve dog, so if chowing on Fido gets you up it'll be a great ride.

I don't know if Air Force guys get to have KATUSA soldiers with you or not, but if you do be good to them. KATUSAs can make like much more fun and bearable, plus they can translate. Always a useful skill...

Do unto others, and don't leave any witnesses...